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In
the touring world a boost and a turbo timing are different creations. Aside
from the Blinky race this one separates the boys from men. When I say men its
because of the adrenaline rush and how fast you can control your car when the
turbo kicks in. So today, I want to summarize the difference between a boost
timing and a turbo timing. This blog post talks about the
Am I right in my understanding that boost is the
"permanent" timing that is applied to the motor throughout the
throttle range whereas turbo is only applied at full throttle, after the turbo
delay period, up to the turbo timing max and in the intervals configured?
It's a little more complicated than that. I use the
Hobbywing software which is what the SP software is based on.
Bear in mind there are 64 steps in the ESC timing,
these are not degrees.
The "boost" is added at a rate based on the
RPM of the motor (Timing ACC setting) starting from a certain RPM (Start RPM).
So, for example, Boost timing at 36, start RPM at 4000 and Timing ACC at 350
means that the boost starts getting added at 4000rpm at a rate of 1 step per
350rpm until 36 steps have been added (in theory you are at full boost timing
at 16600rpm).
The "turbo" is added after a time delay and
at a rate based on time. I think you need to be at full throttle, and the
latest software also waits until all the boost has been added until it adds the
turbo. So, for example, with Turbo of 24, Turbo slope at 18 and Turbo delay at
0.4s, the turbo will kick in after you have been at full throttle for 0.4s, and
will add the timing at a rate of 18 steps for every 0.1s until you have reached
24 steps.
It's probably easier to put the theory to one side
though and just run it with the default settings, make small changes and see
what happens.
The only difference between the MOD and STOCK versions
of the software is that the MOD version has a restricted amount of timing
available.
The bottom end is all in the motor and gearing. The
midrange and topend is in the ESC.
I have run the turbo software a lot in on-road stock
and I can tell you I don't like it. You lose a lot of throttle feel, and you
waste a lot of time chasing the right balance between motor, gearing and ESC
settings. I would never choose to run it in modified off-road for that reason -
if I needed more speed I would motor up. Or even gear up, because brushless
motors have got gobs of efficient torque and will pull a surprisingly big gear
if you need them to.
Some of the terms vary between ESC manufacturers, but the general concept is the same. The ideal amount of timing advance varies by rpm and load. In general more rpm needs more timing advance for the best performance.
Timing boost, or ramping, dynamic, etc, timing is rpm based.
Generally there are adjustments for the rpm where it starts adding timing, how
fast it is applied as rpm continues to increase, and how much total timing is
added. Or a start and end rpm instead of how fast it’s added. Either way it
varies timing advance with rpm progressively.
Turbo or supercharger boost is additional timing added
after a delay at full throttle, for an extra burst at the end of the longer
straightaways with the motor already at high rpms. No absolute rules, but in
general turbo boost is less popular for off road as it can be a little less
predictable on jumps, or with limited traction, etc.
The ideal settings are complicated by the load aspect.
Different classes of RCs, on road vs. off road, track size and type, driving
style some, etc.
But in general start with gearing first, perhaps on
the low side, smaller pinion, than without boost, and with moderate motor
endbell timing. Then slowly add in ramping boost, experiment with start rpm and
rate, until the motor gets too hot or ceases to improve performance. Start rpm
to a degree can be used to adjust low speed punch and feel, rate to get the
best acceleration throughout. Generally with good settings the motor won’t get
very hot, as ideally it is always running at a high efficiency. If it’s getting
hot, and be warned it can get hot really quick with too much boost, you’ve
overdone it. Check temps frequently when experimenting.
Then add turbo and adjust delay if you need an extra
kick towards the end of long straights. Don’t forget temp checks.
Gearing and boost are interrelated. A little more gear
with a little less aggressive boost can be very similar to a little less gear
with a little more boost. Experiment with gearing some after getting a baseline
boost setup.
Most ESC manufacturers will list setups for various
classes and track sizes to help get you started.
Note most stock classes are now “blinky” where no ESC
timing is allowed. Blinky referring to a typical blinking light pattern on the
ESC to indicate it is in the zero timing advance mode per ROAR rules.
Also ESC timing typically doesn’t work well with 4 pole
and 1/8 scale motors, or at least very limited amounts.
Simple eh?
